Hi All,
Apologies. It's been a whole country since I last wrote, and being slack with the diary I can barely remember what I've been up to.
The Namibian desert was a huge huge highlight. It's been rainy season across Africa so it's looked much more green and lush than I'd expected, so it didn't feel as desolate or as stark. This changed in Namibia. I have some amazing photos of red rock mountains, sand dunes, setting sun and petrified forests. Spectacular - it feels a bit like looking across a huge ocean when you look at the sand dunes and dessert - something enormous, beautiful and terrifying about them both.
We slept out in the desert for two nights running (I was in need of a shower, but not a patch on Glastonbury). The moon was full, and at night you didn't need a head torch to see. On the first night we camped by the main road running through the desert and no vehicle passed the entire night. The second night we camped by some stunning rocky mountains - I (being an intrepid explorer) decided to spend the night away from the rest of the camp and slept outside on my own. So off I set, and had a funnily surreal moment when I was brushing my teeth in my sleeping bag in the middle of the desert, miles from anything. I thought it must be the most romantic thing to sleep out on your own under the full moon. But...having decided to sleep with my glasses on in case anything attacked me, and zipped the sleeping bag up round my face to stop insects or snakes getting in I woke up at 1.30 am terrified. I packed up my sleeping bag as quickly as I could and ran back to my tent, zipped myself in and continued having nightmares about sleeping outside on my own. In the morning I was told that hyenas have been known to eat the faces off of people who sleep outside with their arms zipped into their sleeping bag so they can't depend themselves, not to mention the snakes etc. Horrid Horrid. But I assure you I still have a face. Phew.
I'm now in S.Africa. Had a wonderful time in Cape Town along the very lively, Long Street. At night it reminded me of Moulin Rouge with a bustling, slightly seedy and bohemian night life scene set above the street on stunning old dilapidated balconies.
I went over the Robben Island (fascinating and terrifying) and all the other attractions. The markets and vibe in Cape Town is fantastic, and contrasts heavily with the affluent bays dotted along the coast.
I spend a funny few nights in Oudtshoorn where the main industry is the Ostrich. Everywhere are shops selling Ostrich feather dusters, eggs, meat, etc.... I visited one of the farms - but passed on riding one. They really are the most disgusting creatures I've ever seen (up close).
Whilst there I cycled 54k from the top of their highest mountain point down. It was spectacular with rolling mist and dramatic mountains - I needed a support vehicle for some of it because the winds were so strong and were blowing me over onto the other side of the road, and near the cliff edge. When the vehicle left they gave me a puncture repair kit - I had to laugh, I wouldn't have a clue what to do with it if I did get a puncture up in the mountains.
I'm currently in Plettenburg Bay, again stunning mountain, coastal views and walks. I went for a scramble today. Tonight I'm off to Jeffrey's Bay where I'm meeting lots of people I've been travelling with on and off and we're going surfing tomorrow. I hear the waves are expected to be enormous - so fingers crossed.
Hope all is well with you all,
Love x
Friday, 11 March 2011
Monday, 14 February 2011
Hot Botswana and beautiful beef
The sun is something else, I can feel we're gearing up for the deserts of Namibia. The prices are England prices, sometimes more. The only cheap thing to buy here is steak and biltong (dried meat). So.... I have been building fires daily and cooking myself fillet steak. I generally have two in each sitting. I try to have one raw (sometimes just slightly warmed- although then I always think I might catch something and die) and the second rare. Its a bit of a fun game having to collect and chop fire wood every time i cook but i've actually got a pretty good axe technique and have been giving the boys a few lessons. [I loosely applied the sledge hammer when breaking up concrete lesson (thanks da) and I think I have it.]
Hitching about town, on the back of 4x4s, in and around Maun is completely acceptable here. And if you do hail a taxis they will generally keep stopping to pick more ppl up until they're full.
On Saturday night a few of us went out to Truckers, the local night spot/ street party. I was a little conscious that our dancing wasn't quite on par with the local lads (serious style and moves). I generally ask for a dance lesson every time I go out in Africa (for you kat), but it's the guys who really strut their stuff over here, so I'm never sure if they're teaching me a boys dance. Either way, I cannot move my hips, or legs as fast as they can. What a hot and sweaty evening of fun - rounded off with a sausage and steak cooked on the roadside at 3am!
I went to a brilliantly bizarre church service yesterday. We sung and danced for several hours before reaching the anecdotal climax of the pastor wanting telephone airtime but receiving a beer instead from a passer by. He was ultimately handed 100 pula (£10) as well, and he was able to buy his airtime and he also asked for a Nando's chicken for Valentines Day - as a gift from God. What fun.
I also flew across the Okavango Delta in a tiny toy sized 6 seater aeroplane. Spectacular. The views were breathtaking and it was both terrifying and romantic to be flying in such a small wobbly plain.
Tonight is valentines .... I have had to get 2 boys a card/ small gift (cos there are more boys than girls travelling with us). We're all out for a smart meal too. So vie been hand washing my clothes in anticipation.
Tomorrow is a truck day - 14 hrs driving and going over into the NAmibia desert to sleep in the bush.
Note: avatar, I hear the time has finally come. Can't wait to catch up over a drink. Your goodbye card from me, which I took to the airport and forgot to post, has become my bookmark so I've been thinking of you everytime I get 5 mins to read. Good luck and see you soon. X
Ppu- miss you all, Africa is fantastic but I honestly miss work, or maybe just the mental challenge, ready Internet connection and daily news and horizon scan. Hope you have a juicy work program lined up for me. I've not been able to keep up with world affairs let alone uk politics as i never have internet (this is typed on a friends computer which i will wi fi when i next can). I am hearing lots of the cairo situation though. Wish I could send you some of the sun to brighten up catford in winter. Also, interestingly I think the little Vic falls town looks like catford- someone else who lives in ladywell, said he also agreed. So there you go, a possible twinning with vic falls- Zimbabwe?
Hitching about town, on the back of 4x4s, in and around Maun is completely acceptable here. And if you do hail a taxis they will generally keep stopping to pick more ppl up until they're full.
On Saturday night a few of us went out to Truckers, the local night spot/ street party. I was a little conscious that our dancing wasn't quite on par with the local lads (serious style and moves). I generally ask for a dance lesson every time I go out in Africa (for you kat), but it's the guys who really strut their stuff over here, so I'm never sure if they're teaching me a boys dance. Either way, I cannot move my hips, or legs as fast as they can. What a hot and sweaty evening of fun - rounded off with a sausage and steak cooked on the roadside at 3am!
I went to a brilliantly bizarre church service yesterday. We sung and danced for several hours before reaching the anecdotal climax of the pastor wanting telephone airtime but receiving a beer instead from a passer by. He was ultimately handed 100 pula (£10) as well, and he was able to buy his airtime and he also asked for a Nando's chicken for Valentines Day - as a gift from God. What fun.
I also flew across the Okavango Delta in a tiny toy sized 6 seater aeroplane. Spectacular. The views were breathtaking and it was both terrifying and romantic to be flying in such a small wobbly plain.
Tonight is valentines .... I have had to get 2 boys a card/ small gift (cos there are more boys than girls travelling with us). We're all out for a smart meal too. So vie been hand washing my clothes in anticipation.
Tomorrow is a truck day - 14 hrs driving and going over into the NAmibia desert to sleep in the bush.
Note: avatar, I hear the time has finally come. Can't wait to catch up over a drink. Your goodbye card from me, which I took to the airport and forgot to post, has become my bookmark so I've been thinking of you everytime I get 5 mins to read. Good luck and see you soon. X
Ppu- miss you all, Africa is fantastic but I honestly miss work, or maybe just the mental challenge, ready Internet connection and daily news and horizon scan. Hope you have a juicy work program lined up for me. I've not been able to keep up with world affairs let alone uk politics as i never have internet (this is typed on a friends computer which i will wi fi when i next can). I am hearing lots of the cairo situation though. Wish I could send you some of the sun to brighten up catford in winter. Also, interestingly I think the little Vic falls town looks like catford- someone else who lives in ladywell, said he also agreed. So there you go, a possible twinning with vic falls- Zimbabwe?
Vic falls... Rainbows and crocodile curry
Sorry a bit of retrospective blogging.
By this point I was completely in love with ZIm, mine (and many others) favourite country by far. Tourists here signal the return to normality, not only is it the sign of a more stable political and economic climate but the Zimbabweans also have huge pride and love for their country and by visiting they take it as a compliment. There is so much energy and excitement in the country.
By the time we got to Vic falls, sleepy and quiet town, the politics of ZIm felt less apparent. It was much more relaxed.
Vic falls....So no dangling from strings, white water rafting or jumping out of things for me, although it's definitely the place to go if you are an adrenaline junkie. The falls, on foot, were spectacular. Huge power and force, you can hear them from so far away. I found the rock I perked on when I was 11years old for a photo , it is now blocked off with a fence, and looked so ridiculously close to the edge my friend couldn't believe I'd been so fearless (ma, see if you can find the photo).
I had high tea (with lots of dairy pills) at the Vic falls hotel. Spectacular views of the bridge and bungey jumpers. You could also see the spray from the falls rise up above the canyon and it was coloured by a rainbow into a multicoloured mist. Just as I was taking it in a family of wort hogs ran across the hotel lawns, heads high and tales in the air (they are actually rather graceful creatures) and it made for the most surreal contrast and fantastic shot. Luckily a friend snapped it not me because...... [tangent comment] (weep) all my photos have been lost - every last one Inc the orphans. Very sad. Pls don't send me jolly texts about it- officially not talking a out it for a few more days until I feel less angry with myself.
back to zim.... I woke up early one morning (still a bit groggy from the local beer the night before) and headed over the border to Zambia (feeling intrepid for crossing a border on my own). Although no mans land is ridiculously long and I felt much less intrepid by the time I'd arrived hot and sweaty. I met up with others for breakfast and to see the falls from the other side. From Zambia you are much closer to the actual falls, i think from zim you see more of the falls and from zambia you feel it. We were all drenched. At one point the force of the spray was so sever it was pushing my contacts out of my eyes. There was a small walkway bridge over the canyon connecting two viewing points. As we went across, pummelled by spray, with roaring noise, and rivers of water, we walked right through another stunning rainbow. It was stupidly exciting.
Later a local chap jumped into the river that was only about 200 meters from the falls drop. We all ran to the edge in a stunned silence as he was dragged along with the current... Silly man managed to scramble out just in the nick of time, and although I'm sure it's a party piece he'd done before we couldn't help but wonder who we'd have had to tell if he had gone over.
I also ate crocodile curry (with peanut rice). Crocodile is delicious, a bit like chicken, scollop, prawn and fish all rolled into one.
By this point I was completely in love with ZIm, mine (and many others) favourite country by far. Tourists here signal the return to normality, not only is it the sign of a more stable political and economic climate but the Zimbabweans also have huge pride and love for their country and by visiting they take it as a compliment. There is so much energy and excitement in the country.
By the time we got to Vic falls, sleepy and quiet town, the politics of ZIm felt less apparent. It was much more relaxed.
Vic falls....So no dangling from strings, white water rafting or jumping out of things for me, although it's definitely the place to go if you are an adrenaline junkie. The falls, on foot, were spectacular. Huge power and force, you can hear them from so far away. I found the rock I perked on when I was 11years old for a photo , it is now blocked off with a fence, and looked so ridiculously close to the edge my friend couldn't believe I'd been so fearless (ma, see if you can find the photo).
I had high tea (with lots of dairy pills) at the Vic falls hotel. Spectacular views of the bridge and bungey jumpers. You could also see the spray from the falls rise up above the canyon and it was coloured by a rainbow into a multicoloured mist. Just as I was taking it in a family of wort hogs ran across the hotel lawns, heads high and tales in the air (they are actually rather graceful creatures) and it made for the most surreal contrast and fantastic shot. Luckily a friend snapped it not me because...... [tangent comment] (weep) all my photos have been lost - every last one Inc the orphans. Very sad. Pls don't send me jolly texts about it- officially not talking a out it for a few more days until I feel less angry with myself.
back to zim.... I woke up early one morning (still a bit groggy from the local beer the night before) and headed over the border to Zambia (feeling intrepid for crossing a border on my own). Although no mans land is ridiculously long and I felt much less intrepid by the time I'd arrived hot and sweaty. I met up with others for breakfast and to see the falls from the other side. From Zambia you are much closer to the actual falls, i think from zim you see more of the falls and from zambia you feel it. We were all drenched. At one point the force of the spray was so sever it was pushing my contacts out of my eyes. There was a small walkway bridge over the canyon connecting two viewing points. As we went across, pummelled by spray, with roaring noise, and rivers of water, we walked right through another stunning rainbow. It was stupidly exciting.
Later a local chap jumped into the river that was only about 200 meters from the falls drop. We all ran to the edge in a stunned silence as he was dragged along with the current... Silly man managed to scramble out just in the nick of time, and although I'm sure it's a party piece he'd done before we couldn't help but wonder who we'd have had to tell if he had gone over.
I also ate crocodile curry (with peanut rice). Crocodile is delicious, a bit like chicken, scollop, prawn and fish all rolled into one.
Monday, 7 February 2011
Thought and observations
The US dollar is in short supply, difficult to always get hold of, and never ever enough small denominations or change. So change is often given to you in S.A rand and failing that you often get given a handful of lollipops as change for anything less than a US$1. Some places ask you to pay in both rand and $, other accept both, whilst others only accept US$ but give change in Rand.
Zim is considered one of the best spots to see all of the stars - they are super bright - it looks like the the helm of Star Trek or something - amazing.
Every campsite across Africa has been gated and guarded bar one. It's an odd realisation to feel slightly vulnerable without security, although I have pretty much always felt safe here. In Kenya and Tanzania we were guarded by traditional Masai warriors. One night I thought I heard someone outside, and when my friend asked what it could be I said casually 'don't worry, it's probably just a warrior'.
There will be more observations.....
Zim is considered one of the best spots to see all of the stars - they are super bright - it looks like the the helm of Star Trek or something - amazing.
Every campsite across Africa has been gated and guarded bar one. It's an odd realisation to feel slightly vulnerable without security, although I have pretty much always felt safe here. In Kenya and Tanzania we were guarded by traditional Masai warriors. One night I thought I heard someone outside, and when my friend asked what it could be I said casually 'don't worry, it's probably just a warrior'.
There will be more observations.....
Thursday, 3 February 2011
The Zimbabwians
It has been the people that have defined and distinguished this country for me/ us so far.
We arrived in torrential rain, we were unable to stay where we had hoped and other well used campsites had recently been visited/ occupied and 'audited' by Mugabe's men, with a similar (more confrontational) thing happening a week prior to our arrival at other out of town tourist spots (until the police arrived). It seems there are a number of factions aside from Mugabe's own men - namely the War Vets (who are in their 20's, and not directly politically controlled but who have a strong sense of entitlement). There is also much talk of the 51% zim owned rule for businesses - which requires white Zims or non Zims to partner up and sell shares in thier business to black Zims. This has recieved bad press but I've been told that it has opened up the economy also. I don't know enough to comment, and feel uneasy doing so. There is a sense of fear when talking about the political situation, which happens in code and hushed voices. However, it is thought that the army have already gone into the townships and radio's able to pick up external stations are being confiscated. The build up to another election is being felt.... Even now I am feeling uncomfortable typing this - so will stop. However, with the US dollar inflation is stable at around 4%, the supermarkets are full, and hope is returning. Tourism does seem to be bouncing back too. Fingers crossed. The people here are so friendly, and there is a sense of excitement about Zimbabwe. I love it here
So, on the first night we ended up camping miles out of town, and I was desperate to visit 'Des', my mothers cousin who I'd stayed with when I was 11yrs.The first act of kindness was a business man who owned shares in the campsite who drove me 35 mins into Harare central.
Other great people:
-Brother Francis for organising with contacts to sort out some of our traveler cheque exchange woes (literally nowhere in Africa will take them)
- Father Reymond for driving some of the group round to a charity of personal importance to a friend, ensuring we met up with the rest of the group safely (which was a hairy 4 hour taxis ride) and even phoned us to recommend the best night spots to go drinking (surreal).
- A man called Issac who drove us around for an entire afternoon to a Jesuit orphanage and training centre for disabled ppl..
- The two (very respectable) cars/ people that stopped to give us a lift into town as we walked in.
- The bike shop owner who is lending us bikes for free to cycle around for an afternoon since all the bike hire places folded during more difficult times.
-All others who we've met with amazing sense of pride for their country that they really love.
Running out of time on internet.....
Walked with Lions this morning. Scary and calming at the same time.
Would love to write more. Sorry for spelling errors, sure there are plenty. Photos too time consuming to upload. x
We arrived in torrential rain, we were unable to stay where we had hoped and other well used campsites had recently been visited/ occupied and 'audited' by Mugabe's men, with a similar (more confrontational) thing happening a week prior to our arrival at other out of town tourist spots (until the police arrived). It seems there are a number of factions aside from Mugabe's own men - namely the War Vets (who are in their 20's, and not directly politically controlled but who have a strong sense of entitlement). There is also much talk of the 51% zim owned rule for businesses - which requires white Zims or non Zims to partner up and sell shares in thier business to black Zims. This has recieved bad press but I've been told that it has opened up the economy also. I don't know enough to comment, and feel uneasy doing so. There is a sense of fear when talking about the political situation, which happens in code and hushed voices. However, it is thought that the army have already gone into the townships and radio's able to pick up external stations are being confiscated. The build up to another election is being felt.... Even now I am feeling uncomfortable typing this - so will stop. However, with the US dollar inflation is stable at around 4%, the supermarkets are full, and hope is returning. Tourism does seem to be bouncing back too. Fingers crossed. The people here are so friendly, and there is a sense of excitement about Zimbabwe. I love it here
So, on the first night we ended up camping miles out of town, and I was desperate to visit 'Des', my mothers cousin who I'd stayed with when I was 11yrs.The first act of kindness was a business man who owned shares in the campsite who drove me 35 mins into Harare central.
Other great people:
-Brother Francis for organising with contacts to sort out some of our traveler cheque exchange woes (literally nowhere in Africa will take them)
- Father Reymond for driving some of the group round to a charity of personal importance to a friend, ensuring we met up with the rest of the group safely (which was a hairy 4 hour taxis ride) and even phoned us to recommend the best night spots to go drinking (surreal).
- A man called Issac who drove us around for an entire afternoon to a Jesuit orphanage and training centre for disabled ppl..
- The two (very respectable) cars/ people that stopped to give us a lift into town as we walked in.
- The bike shop owner who is lending us bikes for free to cycle around for an afternoon since all the bike hire places folded during more difficult times.
-All others who we've met with amazing sense of pride for their country that they really love.
Running out of time on internet.....
Walked with Lions this morning. Scary and calming at the same time.
Would love to write more. Sorry for spelling errors, sure there are plenty. Photos too time consuming to upload. x
Wednesday, 26 January 2011
Rest and relaxation on lake Milawi
Hi All,
Above shot is actually in Zanzibar - but currently in Milawi. We've camped in two locations and have been able to rest and explore on some of the most rediculously idyllic beaches. The weather's been so hot you can't walk bare footed and the Milawi gin is delicious. I've done some walking and swimming etc, and climbed for 6 hours in 40 degrees to see a waterfall and explore remote village living. I've also been enjoying the fresh mango's which have been falling from the trees (and taste mild and honey like). A few of us went to Church on Sunday - what a wonderful experience to see Christianity bind people all over the world, and work across such different cultures (photos below). A lovely girl called Nat took all the photos attached - my camera is seriously not up to scratch.
But before you get angry with how relaxed and sunned I've been - it's not all been perfect....
A few days ago myself and three others (Sarah, Nats and Tosh) decided to go on a bit of an adventure to find a friend of a friend's tea plantation (where I am currently). We set off at 6pm and arrived just before sunrise the next day after a very crowded bus, a number of police stops, a flooded bridge, a walk in the dark across a wooden plank to a second bus, a short sleep on the road waiting for the second bus (sorry ma - this bit really upsets her, but I had been so ill, and the others did watch over me - particularly Tosh who's been a husband to all of us whilst travelling remotely) and general illness for the entire journey. But we met a lovely lady, I'm calling angel 'Angelina' who insisted I put myhead on her lap to sleep (the seats were impossibe and I was feeling so ill), so after a chuckle to myself, I rested my head on her lap and slept for a fair chunk on the jounrey. I have her address, so will write to thank her for looking after me.
The tea plantation is 4.5thousant hectors - and houses 2 schools, a dispencery, a social club, and a small village for 30% of the workers etc. It also grows macadamian nuts - which I ate far far far too many of whilst being shown round the factory (delicious).
We had tea, cakes and Milawi gin with Tom's (the chap we were visiting) grandparents. His grandfather founded the plantation - it was the first tea plantation in Milawi. He was also one of 4 ex-colonials to be invited into the new government post independence, and is still on the board of 30 companies (at the age of 80). Amazing day - and on a less profound level - what a luxury to have a night in a bed.
Crossing the Mozambique border tomorrow morning - setting off at 4am (ish) to join the other travellers which we're meeting on the other side. Tom is joining our travels so all very excited for the next leg (and desperately looking forward to Harare).
Much love x
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