The sun is something else, I can feel we're gearing up for the deserts of Namibia. The prices are England prices, sometimes more. The only cheap thing to buy here is steak and biltong (dried meat). So.... I have been building fires daily and cooking myself fillet steak. I generally have two in each sitting. I try to have one raw (sometimes just slightly warmed- although then I always think I might catch something and die) and the second rare. Its a bit of a fun game having to collect and chop fire wood every time i cook but i've actually got a pretty good axe technique and have been giving the boys a few lessons. [I loosely applied the sledge hammer when breaking up concrete lesson (thanks da) and I think I have it.]
Hitching about town, on the back of 4x4s, in and around Maun is completely acceptable here. And if you do hail a taxis they will generally keep stopping to pick more ppl up until they're full.
On Saturday night a few of us went out to Truckers, the local night spot/ street party. I was a little conscious that our dancing wasn't quite on par with the local lads (serious style and moves). I generally ask for a dance lesson every time I go out in Africa (for you kat), but it's the guys who really strut their stuff over here, so I'm never sure if they're teaching me a boys dance. Either way, I cannot move my hips, or legs as fast as they can. What a hot and sweaty evening of fun - rounded off with a sausage and steak cooked on the roadside at 3am!
I went to a brilliantly bizarre church service yesterday. We sung and danced for several hours before reaching the anecdotal climax of the pastor wanting telephone airtime but receiving a beer instead from a passer by. He was ultimately handed 100 pula (£10) as well, and he was able to buy his airtime and he also asked for a Nando's chicken for Valentines Day - as a gift from God. What fun.
I also flew across the Okavango Delta in a tiny toy sized 6 seater aeroplane. Spectacular. The views were breathtaking and it was both terrifying and romantic to be flying in such a small wobbly plain.
Tonight is valentines .... I have had to get 2 boys a card/ small gift (cos there are more boys than girls travelling with us). We're all out for a smart meal too. So vie been hand washing my clothes in anticipation.
Tomorrow is a truck day - 14 hrs driving and going over into the NAmibia desert to sleep in the bush.
Note: avatar, I hear the time has finally come. Can't wait to catch up over a drink. Your goodbye card from me, which I took to the airport and forgot to post, has become my bookmark so I've been thinking of you everytime I get 5 mins to read. Good luck and see you soon. X
Ppu- miss you all, Africa is fantastic but I honestly miss work, or maybe just the mental challenge, ready Internet connection and daily news and horizon scan. Hope you have a juicy work program lined up for me. I've not been able to keep up with world affairs let alone uk politics as i never have internet (this is typed on a friends computer which i will wi fi when i next can). I am hearing lots of the cairo situation though. Wish I could send you some of the sun to brighten up catford in winter. Also, interestingly I think the little Vic falls town looks like catford- someone else who lives in ladywell, said he also agreed. So there you go, a possible twinning with vic falls- Zimbabwe?
Monday, 14 February 2011
Vic falls... Rainbows and crocodile curry
Sorry a bit of retrospective blogging.
By this point I was completely in love with ZIm, mine (and many others) favourite country by far. Tourists here signal the return to normality, not only is it the sign of a more stable political and economic climate but the Zimbabweans also have huge pride and love for their country and by visiting they take it as a compliment. There is so much energy and excitement in the country.
By the time we got to Vic falls, sleepy and quiet town, the politics of ZIm felt less apparent. It was much more relaxed.
Vic falls....So no dangling from strings, white water rafting or jumping out of things for me, although it's definitely the place to go if you are an adrenaline junkie. The falls, on foot, were spectacular. Huge power and force, you can hear them from so far away. I found the rock I perked on when I was 11years old for a photo , it is now blocked off with a fence, and looked so ridiculously close to the edge my friend couldn't believe I'd been so fearless (ma, see if you can find the photo).
I had high tea (with lots of dairy pills) at the Vic falls hotel. Spectacular views of the bridge and bungey jumpers. You could also see the spray from the falls rise up above the canyon and it was coloured by a rainbow into a multicoloured mist. Just as I was taking it in a family of wort hogs ran across the hotel lawns, heads high and tales in the air (they are actually rather graceful creatures) and it made for the most surreal contrast and fantastic shot. Luckily a friend snapped it not me because...... [tangent comment] (weep) all my photos have been lost - every last one Inc the orphans. Very sad. Pls don't send me jolly texts about it- officially not talking a out it for a few more days until I feel less angry with myself.
back to zim.... I woke up early one morning (still a bit groggy from the local beer the night before) and headed over the border to Zambia (feeling intrepid for crossing a border on my own). Although no mans land is ridiculously long and I felt much less intrepid by the time I'd arrived hot and sweaty. I met up with others for breakfast and to see the falls from the other side. From Zambia you are much closer to the actual falls, i think from zim you see more of the falls and from zambia you feel it. We were all drenched. At one point the force of the spray was so sever it was pushing my contacts out of my eyes. There was a small walkway bridge over the canyon connecting two viewing points. As we went across, pummelled by spray, with roaring noise, and rivers of water, we walked right through another stunning rainbow. It was stupidly exciting.
Later a local chap jumped into the river that was only about 200 meters from the falls drop. We all ran to the edge in a stunned silence as he was dragged along with the current... Silly man managed to scramble out just in the nick of time, and although I'm sure it's a party piece he'd done before we couldn't help but wonder who we'd have had to tell if he had gone over.
I also ate crocodile curry (with peanut rice). Crocodile is delicious, a bit like chicken, scollop, prawn and fish all rolled into one.
By this point I was completely in love with ZIm, mine (and many others) favourite country by far. Tourists here signal the return to normality, not only is it the sign of a more stable political and economic climate but the Zimbabweans also have huge pride and love for their country and by visiting they take it as a compliment. There is so much energy and excitement in the country.
By the time we got to Vic falls, sleepy and quiet town, the politics of ZIm felt less apparent. It was much more relaxed.
Vic falls....So no dangling from strings, white water rafting or jumping out of things for me, although it's definitely the place to go if you are an adrenaline junkie. The falls, on foot, were spectacular. Huge power and force, you can hear them from so far away. I found the rock I perked on when I was 11years old for a photo , it is now blocked off with a fence, and looked so ridiculously close to the edge my friend couldn't believe I'd been so fearless (ma, see if you can find the photo).
I had high tea (with lots of dairy pills) at the Vic falls hotel. Spectacular views of the bridge and bungey jumpers. You could also see the spray from the falls rise up above the canyon and it was coloured by a rainbow into a multicoloured mist. Just as I was taking it in a family of wort hogs ran across the hotel lawns, heads high and tales in the air (they are actually rather graceful creatures) and it made for the most surreal contrast and fantastic shot. Luckily a friend snapped it not me because...... [tangent comment] (weep) all my photos have been lost - every last one Inc the orphans. Very sad. Pls don't send me jolly texts about it- officially not talking a out it for a few more days until I feel less angry with myself.
back to zim.... I woke up early one morning (still a bit groggy from the local beer the night before) and headed over the border to Zambia (feeling intrepid for crossing a border on my own). Although no mans land is ridiculously long and I felt much less intrepid by the time I'd arrived hot and sweaty. I met up with others for breakfast and to see the falls from the other side. From Zambia you are much closer to the actual falls, i think from zim you see more of the falls and from zambia you feel it. We were all drenched. At one point the force of the spray was so sever it was pushing my contacts out of my eyes. There was a small walkway bridge over the canyon connecting two viewing points. As we went across, pummelled by spray, with roaring noise, and rivers of water, we walked right through another stunning rainbow. It was stupidly exciting.
Later a local chap jumped into the river that was only about 200 meters from the falls drop. We all ran to the edge in a stunned silence as he was dragged along with the current... Silly man managed to scramble out just in the nick of time, and although I'm sure it's a party piece he'd done before we couldn't help but wonder who we'd have had to tell if he had gone over.
I also ate crocodile curry (with peanut rice). Crocodile is delicious, a bit like chicken, scollop, prawn and fish all rolled into one.
Monday, 7 February 2011
Thought and observations
The US dollar is in short supply, difficult to always get hold of, and never ever enough small denominations or change. So change is often given to you in S.A rand and failing that you often get given a handful of lollipops as change for anything less than a US$1. Some places ask you to pay in both rand and $, other accept both, whilst others only accept US$ but give change in Rand.
Zim is considered one of the best spots to see all of the stars - they are super bright - it looks like the the helm of Star Trek or something - amazing.
Every campsite across Africa has been gated and guarded bar one. It's an odd realisation to feel slightly vulnerable without security, although I have pretty much always felt safe here. In Kenya and Tanzania we were guarded by traditional Masai warriors. One night I thought I heard someone outside, and when my friend asked what it could be I said casually 'don't worry, it's probably just a warrior'.
There will be more observations.....
Zim is considered one of the best spots to see all of the stars - they are super bright - it looks like the the helm of Star Trek or something - amazing.
Every campsite across Africa has been gated and guarded bar one. It's an odd realisation to feel slightly vulnerable without security, although I have pretty much always felt safe here. In Kenya and Tanzania we were guarded by traditional Masai warriors. One night I thought I heard someone outside, and when my friend asked what it could be I said casually 'don't worry, it's probably just a warrior'.
There will be more observations.....
Thursday, 3 February 2011
The Zimbabwians
It has been the people that have defined and distinguished this country for me/ us so far.
We arrived in torrential rain, we were unable to stay where we had hoped and other well used campsites had recently been visited/ occupied and 'audited' by Mugabe's men, with a similar (more confrontational) thing happening a week prior to our arrival at other out of town tourist spots (until the police arrived). It seems there are a number of factions aside from Mugabe's own men - namely the War Vets (who are in their 20's, and not directly politically controlled but who have a strong sense of entitlement). There is also much talk of the 51% zim owned rule for businesses - which requires white Zims or non Zims to partner up and sell shares in thier business to black Zims. This has recieved bad press but I've been told that it has opened up the economy also. I don't know enough to comment, and feel uneasy doing so. There is a sense of fear when talking about the political situation, which happens in code and hushed voices. However, it is thought that the army have already gone into the townships and radio's able to pick up external stations are being confiscated. The build up to another election is being felt.... Even now I am feeling uncomfortable typing this - so will stop. However, with the US dollar inflation is stable at around 4%, the supermarkets are full, and hope is returning. Tourism does seem to be bouncing back too. Fingers crossed. The people here are so friendly, and there is a sense of excitement about Zimbabwe. I love it here
So, on the first night we ended up camping miles out of town, and I was desperate to visit 'Des', my mothers cousin who I'd stayed with when I was 11yrs.The first act of kindness was a business man who owned shares in the campsite who drove me 35 mins into Harare central.
Other great people:
-Brother Francis for organising with contacts to sort out some of our traveler cheque exchange woes (literally nowhere in Africa will take them)
- Father Reymond for driving some of the group round to a charity of personal importance to a friend, ensuring we met up with the rest of the group safely (which was a hairy 4 hour taxis ride) and even phoned us to recommend the best night spots to go drinking (surreal).
- A man called Issac who drove us around for an entire afternoon to a Jesuit orphanage and training centre for disabled ppl..
- The two (very respectable) cars/ people that stopped to give us a lift into town as we walked in.
- The bike shop owner who is lending us bikes for free to cycle around for an afternoon since all the bike hire places folded during more difficult times.
-All others who we've met with amazing sense of pride for their country that they really love.
Running out of time on internet.....
Walked with Lions this morning. Scary and calming at the same time.
Would love to write more. Sorry for spelling errors, sure there are plenty. Photos too time consuming to upload. x
We arrived in torrential rain, we were unable to stay where we had hoped and other well used campsites had recently been visited/ occupied and 'audited' by Mugabe's men, with a similar (more confrontational) thing happening a week prior to our arrival at other out of town tourist spots (until the police arrived). It seems there are a number of factions aside from Mugabe's own men - namely the War Vets (who are in their 20's, and not directly politically controlled but who have a strong sense of entitlement). There is also much talk of the 51% zim owned rule for businesses - which requires white Zims or non Zims to partner up and sell shares in thier business to black Zims. This has recieved bad press but I've been told that it has opened up the economy also. I don't know enough to comment, and feel uneasy doing so. There is a sense of fear when talking about the political situation, which happens in code and hushed voices. However, it is thought that the army have already gone into the townships and radio's able to pick up external stations are being confiscated. The build up to another election is being felt.... Even now I am feeling uncomfortable typing this - so will stop. However, with the US dollar inflation is stable at around 4%, the supermarkets are full, and hope is returning. Tourism does seem to be bouncing back too. Fingers crossed. The people here are so friendly, and there is a sense of excitement about Zimbabwe. I love it here
So, on the first night we ended up camping miles out of town, and I was desperate to visit 'Des', my mothers cousin who I'd stayed with when I was 11yrs.The first act of kindness was a business man who owned shares in the campsite who drove me 35 mins into Harare central.
Other great people:
-Brother Francis for organising with contacts to sort out some of our traveler cheque exchange woes (literally nowhere in Africa will take them)
- Father Reymond for driving some of the group round to a charity of personal importance to a friend, ensuring we met up with the rest of the group safely (which was a hairy 4 hour taxis ride) and even phoned us to recommend the best night spots to go drinking (surreal).
- A man called Issac who drove us around for an entire afternoon to a Jesuit orphanage and training centre for disabled ppl..
- The two (very respectable) cars/ people that stopped to give us a lift into town as we walked in.
- The bike shop owner who is lending us bikes for free to cycle around for an afternoon since all the bike hire places folded during more difficult times.
-All others who we've met with amazing sense of pride for their country that they really love.
Running out of time on internet.....
Walked with Lions this morning. Scary and calming at the same time.
Would love to write more. Sorry for spelling errors, sure there are plenty. Photos too time consuming to upload. x
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